My friends and I accidentally stumbled upon a chicken taste-off with my closest friends during our last playdate with the kids. Which one is better: roast chicken from Larry the Bird or a traditional Chinese Beggar’s Chicken?
Beggar’s Chicken, 叫化鸡” (Jiàohuā jī), is a traditional Chinese dish that has been cherished for centuries. Legend has it that the dish originated in Hangzhou during the Qing dynasty, when a beggar stole a chicken and, lacking cooking utensils, wrapped it in lotus leaves and buried it in mud to roast it. The result was a succulent and flavorful chicken encased in a hardened mud shell – thus, Beggar’s Chicken was born. If I were to compare its popularity to any other Chinese dish, it would be that of Peking duck. In Beijing, Peking duck is the epitome of local cuisine; in Hangzhou, that spot is reserved for Beggar’s Chicken.
The wrapped chicken is slow-cooked in a clay oven for several hours, allowing the flavors to meld and intensify. As the mud hardens and forms a crust, it seals in the moisture and juices of the chicken, resulting in tender and succulent meat that practically falls off the bone. The slow cooking process also allows the chicken to absorb the subtle flavors of the lotus leaves and seasoning, creating a truly unforgettable dining experience.
When the cooking process is complete, the hardened mud shell is cracked open to reveal the steaming hot chicken within. The aroma that wafts from the dish is nothing short of heavenly, enticing diners with its rich and savory scent. The chicken is typically served alongside fragrant rice and a selection of dipping sauces, allowing diners to customize their dining experience to their liking.
Beyond its delectable taste, Beggar’s Chicken holds a special place in Chinese culture as a symbol of prosperity and good fortune. It is often served during special occasions such as weddings, birthdays, and New Year celebrations, where it is believed to bring luck and happiness to those who partake in it.
While the traditional method of preparing Beggar’s Chicken remains unchanged, modern interpretations of the dish can be found in upscale restaurants and home kitchens, where chefs put their creative spin on this classic recipe. There are also brands like 鸡麦郎叫花鸡 (jimailang jiaohuaji), a national chain that delivers Beggar’s Chicken to your door within the hour for around RMB 50 a chicken.
So, which one wins: roast chicken or Beggar’s Chicken? It’s a bit of a toss-up. Larry the Bird makes our favorite roast chicken in town, with its secret blend of seasoning. The meat is succulent and flavorful and the skin is crispy and perfectly seasoned. But Beggar’s Chicken is packed with a whole different set of flavors, and when you’ve got a bunch of kids running around during a play date who only want to occasionally make pit stops at the table for nibbles, a whole chicken makes for a perfect nit-picking snack.
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Images: Mina Yan
