The good people of Dalian take a lot of pride in their hometown’s reputation as the most beautiful city in China, and there may well be something to the claim. Sure, there are plenty of places around the country that enshrine the poetic stillness of a more delicate China of days gone by, but the idea that a modern Chinese metropolis could still deserve adjectives such as quaint, lovely, and spotless might stretch the imaginations of those who have been in Beijing for a while. But it’s true, and in this way Dalian manages to create an enchanting portrait of modern China – something of a gargantuan feat.
Dalian is one of those small fishing towns that only got moving in the 20th century – like Shenzhen. The difference is that Dalian’s strategic position at the lip of the Bohai Gulf made it a tempting prize for foreign imperialists. It was leased – under duress – to Russia by the Qing dynasty and occupied by Japan, during which time the spacious foundations and harbor facilities were laid out – the only positive legacy of the period. Enter charismatic politician Bo Xilai – Dalian’s favorite son, and now China’s Minister of Commerce – and Dalian, under a leadership that put municipal beautification at the forefront of its policies, quite simply flowered. Old colonial buildings were restored, ugly apartment blocks were replaced by graceful, classically inspired colorful ones and grass was planted throughout the city. Streetlamps were replaced by candelabra-style lanterns, streets widened, and old rocky shorelines were developed into world-class beach parks. For a Beijinger, it’s a weekend getaway that may well inspire multiple return trips.
The weather’s better than in the capital anytime, but summer is ideal for escaping the Beijing sauna and relaxing on the Dalian seashore. Try to make the International Fashion Festival this year from September 16 to 25 to see the city at its liveliest.
Must-See Attractions
The single most unmissable spot in Dalian is Xinghai Park – claimed to be the largest public square in Asia. Behind the rather extensive exhibition centers and museum, a broad park of concentric oval streets, terminating at what looks like a giant skateboard ramp (actually representing an open book), is surrounded by a bright row of trendy restaurants and watering holes that put Sanlitun to shame. At night, the whole area glitters with neon and floodlights, but it’s not hard to escape to the romantic shadows of the gardens or stroll along the waterfront to the sound of the waves.
For daytime visitors, there’s a hot-air balloon that resembles a football – Dalian’s favorite sport by far – and a bungee tower not far away, where for RMB 180 (not refundable for the cowardly) you can leap yourself into an adrenaline panic in the presence of Dalian’s stunning harbor views. Light buggy-sized aircraft can whip you around the coastline for an aerial perspective, or for the more acrophobic, bicycles can be rented to ride along Binhai Lu – China’s only true scenic drive. To get there, head out towards the majestic-looking European castle overlooking the square, which, despite its impressive appearance, is actually home to a museum of seashell displays that has been under renovation – either way, it’s not worth a visit.
For daytime visitors, there’s a hot-air balloon that resembles a football – Dalian’s favorite sport by far – and a bungee tower not far away, where for RMB 180 (not refundable for the cowardly) you can leap yourself into an adrenaline panic in the presence of Dalian’s stunning harbor views. Light buggy-sized aircraft can whip you around the coastline for an aerial perspective, or for the more acrophobic, bicycles can be rented to ride along Binhai Lu – China’s only true scenic drive. To get there, head out towards the majestic-looking European castle overlooking the square, which, despite its impressive appearance, is actually home to a museum of seashell displays that has been under renovation – either way, it’s not worth a visit.
The Development Zone, on the other hand, encourages foreign
visitors, and a light-rail connects the two city centers. More commercial than industrial face of Dalian, it has its own beachfront that is even better than those in central Dalian itself. Jinshi Tan looks like a genuine resort with its
ocean-facing condos and sapphire-blue swimming water. Walk along the
beach to see the interesting cliff-face sculptures, some of which depict
life-sized fossilized dinosaur bones, and become one of a long list of tourists who’ve had their photos taken emerging from a dinosaur egg. A short way inland on Tongniu Hill is what seems to be a landed UFO – it’s actually a
stylized lookout which affords comprehensive views of the zone, a smart-looking and well-planned city that didn’t exist twenty years before.
A Taste of Korea and Italy
If you are into Korean meals, do visit Koreatown when you’re back in Dalian central. It’s a little-known area just past and opposite the Shangri-La and near the Customs Building. One street back from Renmin Lu is a network of alleys full of the most authentic Korean joints in China. Several are decorated in traditional Korean style and the Korean Hangeul script adorns every building. More well-known are the Japanese and Russian culture streets, both marked on the local map, where just as in Koreatown you’ll find restored foreign architecture, signs in the local script and good restaurants. The Russian street is the largest of all three, a short bus or taxi ride away from the train station, where the opulent mansions of a hundred years before have been prettified in pastel colors as if they’d just been built. Duck into a left hutong halfway down for the real thing. Here you’ll find several other streets of the same style homes in a disheveled condition more befitting of their age, each one inhabited by several Chinese families piling up the fallen bricks to section off extra rooms.
If you’re in the mood for slurping spaghetti, there’s Barolo Italian Restaurant in the south harbor of Dalian. It is one of many signs that massive foreign investment has shaped this city into an international locale in the Northeast. So if you’re not in the mood to go see another temple in the countryside on your next weekend out, visit Dalian and go swimming instead.
Getting there
Train: Take train T81 (9.21pm, arrives 6.58am) or T225 (6pm-6am) from Beijing Railway Station to Dalian.
Car: Take Jingshen Expressway from either East Fourth or Fifth Ring Road to Panjin city in Liaoning Province, to the Panhaiying Expressway (Panjin 盘锦–Haicheng 海城–Yingkou 营口). At the Liupan (六盘) tollbooth, take the Shenda Expressway (Shenyang 沈阳-Dalian 大连) and follow signs to Dalian.
Approx distance: 840 km
Shangri-la Hotel
RMB 1,638-RMB 23,000. 66 Renmin Lu, Zhongshan District (0411 8252 5000) www.shangrila.com 大连香格里拉大饭店，中山区人民路66号
Swissotel Dalian
RMB 818-RMB 8,020. 21 Wuhui Lu, Zhongshan District (0411 8230 3388) www.swissotel-dalian.com 大连瑞士酒店，中山区五惠路21号
Haiyun International Youth Hostel
RMB 25-90 per bed. 104 Jian, 667 Zhongshan District (0411 8239 4400) 大连海韵国际青年旅社，中山区667号104舰
Barolo Italian Restaurant
Daily 11.30am-10pm. 14 Zhongnan Lu, near Qiqi Jie, Zhongshan District, Tianjin (0411 8273 8078B) arolo意大利西餐厅, 天津中山区七七街中南路14号
