Susu
Digging into one of the world’s healthiest cuisines
Susu serves authentic Vietnamese cuisine in a refined and intimate courtyard setting in Dongsi. The soul of Vietnamese cuisine is best reflected in its national obsession: pho, a rice noodle soup consisting of clear broth that is simple, fresh, and light. Susu’s calling cards are fresh ingredients, minimal use of oil, and a balance between vegetables and meat. Common seasonings include fish sauce, shrimp paste, hot peppers, lemongrass, ginger, mint, coriander, lime, and basil leaves. You can easily spot Susu’s signature dishes on the manageable two-page menu, along with more innovative ones such as the Five Color Salad (RMB 45). Clemence Jiang
Also try: Le Little Saigon, Muse Parisian Vietnamese Brasserie
Recommended Dishes for Kids
– Salmon roll: Filled with raw vegetables and vermicelli, this roll contains seared salmon bathed in balsamic vinegar, olive oil and fish sauce. RMB 58.
– Beef pho: The rich broth in Susu’s pho is simmered from rare beef and brisket with cinnamon, star anise and black cardamom. Our only criticism is that the dish could have used a bit more broth. RMB 32 for a medium serving.
– Fish cakes: These tender fish cakes are made from freshwater bass and fennel leaves with sweet and sour fish sauce. Even younger children can enjoy this. RMB 58.
Family-Friendly Checklist:
– Non-smoking? ✓
– Clean bathrooms? ✓
– Booster seats or high chairs? ✓
– Healthy food selections? ✓
– On-table distractions? ✗
– Kids’ play area? ✗
– Child-sized portions? ✓
– Childproof table settings? ✗
– Staff accustomed to dealing with children? ✓
– Stroller-accessible? ✓
– Quiet atmosphere? ✗
– English menu? ✓
– Low prices? ✗
– Nearby parking? ✗
– Booth seating? ✓
– Diaper changing table? ✗
– English-speaking staff? ✓
– Live entertainment or floor show? ✗
Susu 苏苏会
Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng District (8400 2699) 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号
Little Yunnan
Into the melting pot
Yunnan cuisine is hard to pin down, owing its eclectic nature to the convergence of Han and minority influences as well as its proximity to Burma, Laos, and Vietnam. As China’s most biodiverse province, a discussion of Yunnan food would not be complete without mentioning the 800 varieties of mushrooms that spring up between July and September. Ranging from fleshy porcini to carrot-colored saffron milk caps, mushrooms are usually simply prepared to preserve their taste and texture. Sour and spicy flavors predominate, with liberal use of herbs and garnishes like lemongrass, mint, lime, and coriander.
In Beijing, Yunnan restaurants tend to tone down the spiciness of their dishes to better suit northern palates, says Little Yunnan Owner Qiu Qin. However, all the province’s greatest hits can be found on the menu, including pan-fried goat cheese, smoked ham, and mushrooms airlifted straight from Yunnan. Adventurous eaters should pull on a pair of plastic gloves and dive into Little Yunnan’s signature crayfish (RMB 60-70 per jin depending on size), available every year from March to early December. Sijia Chen
Also try: Dali Renjia, Yun’er Xiaozhen, Aimo Town
Recommended Dishes for Kids
– Smashed potato (老奶奶洋芋): In Chinese, this dish is known as “Grandma’s Potato” because its soft consistency makes it accessible even to toothless grannies.
RMB 26.
– Pan-fried Yunnan goat cheese (乳饼): Lightly dip the rubing in sugar for a salty-and-sweet taste symphony. RMB 22.
– Pineapple rice (菠萝饭): This Dai dish features short-grain rice cooked inside a hollowed-out pineapple half. The rice is glutinous, sweet, and delicious. RMB 28.
Family-Friendly Checklist:
– Non-smoking? (Little Yunnan allows smoking, but Qiu Qin says patrons are asked to tone it down when kids are around.) ✗
– Clean bathrooms? (A single squat toilet adjacent to the restaurant’s courtyard) ✗
– Booster seats or high chairs? (One high chair) ✓
– Healthy food selections? (There is a meat-free section for vegetarians) ✓
– On-table distractions? ✗
– Kids’ play area? ✗
– Child-sized portions? ✗
– Childproof table settings? ✗
– Staff accustomed to dealing with children? ✓
– Stroller-accessible? (Yes, but you have to go over a raised threshold to access the courtyard. Strollers can be stashed outside.) ✓
– Quiet atmosphere? (During the day, yes. However, the courtyard is bustling in the summer and Little Yunnan tends to be busy for dinner.) ✗
– English menu? ✓
– Low prices? ✓
– Nearby parking? (Available on the street outside the restaurant) ✓
– Booth seating? (No, but two loft spaces offer private dining) ✗
– Diaper changing table? ✗
– English-speaking staff? ✗
– Live entertainment or floor show? ✗
Little Yunnan 小云南
Daily 11am-midnight. 28 Donghuangchenggen Beijie, Dongcheng District (6401 9498) 东城区东黄城根北街28号
photos by Clemence Jiang and Mitchell Pe Masilun
This article originally appeared on p66-67 of the beijingkids January 2014 issue.
Check out the PDF version online at Issuu.com