When I was heavily pregnant my husband arranged a special birthday treat: we were to spend an evening dining at the famous TRB Forbidden City, in arguably one of the most romantic settings in Beijing. However when you’re eight months pregnant, no longer allowed to enjoy almost the entirety of your much-loved food groups, and not in any condition to take advantage of expertly paired wines with each course, dining out loses all of its appeal, bar milkshakes and cheeseburgers!
I opted out of enjoying this very thoughtfully planned birthday surprise, but made up for it in epic proportion with an iconic joint date night at TRB Hutong. TRB has four brand concepts, fine dining at TRB Forbidden City and TRB Hutong and affordable luxury establishments, Merci in Joy City and Hulu in Sanlitun. We opted to try out their chef’s recommendations at their flagship restaurant TRB Hutong.
You’ll be surrounded by art and great food!
Nestled among the beautiful and historic hutongs of Dongcheng is a dining oasis that combines art, antiquity, and cuisine to create a dining experience one will not forget in a hurry. The venue has transformed an historic hutong courtyard into a modern and chic fine dining and art installation space, which maintains and speaks to its Chinese heritage and aesthetic while embracing avant-garde modernity.
The restaurant area is reminiscent of an art gallery ready to be adorned with culinary works of art, and a floor-to-ceiling window makes sure that day and evening dining comes with a view. Staff were immaculately presented, as were the linen-dressed tables. The service team was attentive to every need without being obtrusive and although we sometimes had up to four or five waiters tending to our table, we never felt crowded.
It seemed only right to let the chef take over all the decision-making for the evening. If you’ve read my previous date night reviews, you will know that I’m a massive fan of handing over food and beverage choices to staff and chef recommendations. This can sometimes ensure that you don’t miss out on anything epic, and can often lead to you enjoying the best of the best on the menu. To start we had a sparkling wine aperitif with an amuse bouche, made of seaweed crisps, salmon, and cream cheese, partnered with a cold asparagus soup. It was delicious, a balanced combination of saltiness, texture, and smoothness. We were ready for more, but had no idea of the number of courses headed our way!
Salmon and Cream Cheese on Potato Crisps
Next came a trio of seasoned butters, pea soup, and TRB Hutong’s signature Gravlax (cured salmon with dill). This dish was light and tasty. Paired with a floral Chardonnay, there was a welcomed hit of saltiness from the chopped capers and the dish came together with fluffy horseradish and house-made breads.
Cured Salmon with Dill
Next came the flaky Halibut, with radish and a sumptuous creamy leek and basil aioli: a beautifully presented dish that was dainty and quaint, but packed full of flavor. I love fish, and Halibut is a wonderful ingredient to use. This was a refined and understated dish that I could have had two (or three) more portions of.
Cod with Aioli
It’s hard to choose a star of the show, however the pigeon has to be one of the iconic dishes of the evening. The meat was gamey and moist and the sauce rich and warm. A foam and Conchiglie (shell pasta) partnered the dish, but to be honest the pigeon alone with a bucket of the gravy would have suited me just fine, along with the robust red that was paired with the dish.
Pigeon with a caramelized jus
This one was a hard dish to follow, but the seared steak fillet with asparagus had no trouble shining on the night. Tender and tasty, this is just what you need when ordering a steak dish: a prime cut, generously seasoned, with a good side and sauce – no frills, just good meat and a good red!
The perfectly seared steak fillet
Dessert was more than something sweet to finish an excellent evening meal; it was the finale to a stage show deserving of a shower of red roses at the feet of all the staff and chefs. Set custard silenced everyone at the table, followed by the cheesecake, which was decadent with just the right amount of tartness from the raspberries and tempered sweetness from the coconut ice cream.
Cheesecake and coconut ice cream
Petit fours finished the night on a sugar high. Macaroons, dark chocolate encased mousse, sugared sweets, and gold leaf treats were a marvel along with a nightcap of premium sake.
Our date night friends for the evening were just as enamored with our dining experience… which is just what it was. It was more than a date night, it was a culinary experience and worth the extra pennies for special occasions and to ostentatiously show off when you have out-of-town company. Old and new meet in this gastronomic space, and flavors that unite Chinese ingredients with European flair.
Set meals start from RMB 688 per person. Wine Pairings (five pours) start from RMB 468. TRB Hutong, No. 23 Shatan North Street, Dongcheng District. www.trb-hutong.com.
Photos: Nicole Bonnah
