Even before I arrived in China, I had heard nothing but praise for Yunnan. This land South of the Clouds lives up to the literal translation of its Chinese name – blue skies, big clouds, all in a place filled with color and contrast, especially if you’re starting out from Kunming.
Ask anyone about where to go in Yunnan and they’ll say start from the provincial capital but don’t just stay there. They will usually tell you that it’s a starting point for all your exotic excursions to Dali, Pu’er, and Xishuangbanna and nothing more.
Smack dab in the city center, Moon & Chalice isn’t just a great place to stay, but good-looking as well
So, when it came time for me to finally visit Kunming, all I could think was, “What is there to even do there?”I took a step out the door, hopped on a plane, and found myself in the capital, riding the subway from Kunming Changshui Airport to my hotel…
A Home in the Old City
The rooms are slim but still comfortable
Even the rooms (some thin, due to the width of the structures, but not cramped) are phenomenal. A stay in a Standard Double Room runs about RMB 468 per night and can get you a dose of that local luxury that gives you all the comforts that you would want.
Around Green Lake
Wenlin Jie has a great many quirky shops and storefronts
Green Lake isn’t just a nice place to walk around and gaze at the green of spring or summer, but there are plenty of activities to try as well. For small children in tow, there are singing mall trains cruising about. There’s also the option to paddleboat your way around the lake as well.
A Little Bit of History
The city was also home for a time to the American Volunteer Group, aka the Flying TigersBesides the Yunnan Military Academy, a few other museums worth a visit include the Kunming Museum (which houses a special exhibition on the American Volunteer Group, aka the Flying Tigers), the Yunnan Provincial Museum, and the Yunnan Railway Museum. The latter institution, housed near Kunming North Station, has a collection of trains – making it a great spot to visit if you’re traveling with children.
Where to Refuel
Heavenly Manna is a great lunch and dinner spot
Last but not least, no trip to Kunming is complete without getting yourself an 饵块 ěrkuài. Not exactly two yuan (it translates to earpiece), erkuai is sticky rice dough that’s pounded until soft and molded into different shapes. The most common form sees the dough rolled around a youtiao with sweet and savory fillings (烧饵块加油条 shāo ěrkuài jiā yóutiáo). Get it, it’s good! But don’t try using it to get on public transit.
The Western Hills & Dianchi Lake
Naigu Stone Forest
Not to be confused with the larger and more popular Stone Forest Scenic Area, the Naigu Stone Forest Scenic Area (乃古石林风景区 nǎigǔ shílín fēngjǐngqū) is a great place to witness Yunnan’s karst topography while avoiding crowds of tourists. When our group of eight visited, we were the only souls in the entire scenic area beside a film crew we ran into well into our tour.
Unlike Major Stone Forest, Naigu’s rock formations are predominantly black in color. The formations can either be viewed from a series of paths amongst stones or from a path snaking through the center of the formations. The latter is a bit more fun to traverse, as you can duck and dodge under and around protruding pieces of stone.
Like many before me, my journey to Kunming has made me fall in love with the local culture, scenery, food, and art. It’s something that should be on every person’s China travel bucket list — but there’s yet more to see just outside the capital that’s worth sharing. Stay tuned!
Images: Vincent R Vinci
